SIMPLY THE BEST: INSIDE ATLANTIS THE ROYAL

You see it from the Palm before you even get there. This massive structure rising out of the sand, and it takes a few seconds for your brain to process what you're looking at. The scale of it. The architecture. You're driving closer and you can't look away. Then you pull up and the staff are already at your door, taking your luggage, and you walk through the entrance and there are cascading waterfalls either side with bursts of fire. And that's before you even get to the lobby.

The lobby hits every sense you've got. The sheer size of it. Rain drop sculpture hanging from the ceiling right as you walk into reception. Elevators encased in waterfalls. Two full-sized aquariums with tropical fish either side. A Carbone and a Louis Vuitton just sitting there like they belong. I've stayed in a lot of places. Nothing comes close to this lobby. Nothing.

The Room

My first visit I had a Palm View room and I wasn't expecting the view to hit like that. You open the curtains and the Palm Jumeirah is just there. The Burj Al Arab in the distance. Bluewaters Island on the horizon. The fountain show every 30 minutes. I actually had to ask the staff member if what I was seeing was real. It was.

Second visit was the Panoramic Suite. Top of the hotel. Personal elevator straight to your door. Both sides of the resort, the Gulf, the Palm, all of it. Your own pool on the terrace. Outdoor lounge and dining area. Indoor formal dining for 12. A grand living room, his and hers bathrooms, an office, a cocktail bar, two bedrooms, and your own butler. The suite where Kendall Jenner, Victoria Beckham and Alessandra Ambrosio have all stayed.

But my favourite spot both times was always outside on the terrace. Just sitting there watching the world go by. It's peaceful in a way that shouldn't be possible somewhere that grand. You find yourself going back to the room just to be on that balcony again.

Eating

Where do I even start. The resort is so vast with so many restaurants that you almost forget there's a city outside to explore. Fine dining, casual dining, everything in between.

Carbone is the latest addition, Italian, right in the main lobby. Opened the week after I left so I didn't get to try it, but by all accounts it's a huge success. The Michelin Star options are serious. Dinner by Heston. Le Mar for Peruvian. Nobu at the Beach. Milos for Greek. And then there's Ling Ling, which has to be the most popular spot for the younger Dubai crowd. The interior design is visually stunning, there's a DJ, a proper bar, and the outdoor lounge area with the views is perfect for those Instagram shots. You understand why it's packed every night when you see it.

For families, Elements Lounge and Bar in the main lobby is the one. Indoor and outdoor seating depending on the heat. Full view of the fountain show. Wide menu, simple options like burgers and fries that are so good I had to stop myself from going every night. And it's right there in the lobby, no need to go hunting for it.

Then there's Gastronomy. The breakfast lounge. Except calling it a breakfast lounge is like calling the Royal Atlantis a hotel. It's unlike anything you have ever seen. 17 cooking stations. Everything from healthy smoothies and fruit to a full English breakfast, pizzas, pastries. It's overwhelming in the best way. Gastronomy also opens to non-hotel guests in the evening as a buffet at an extra charge.

The Details That Stay With You

The property itself is ridiculous to look at. Inside and out. You feel privileged just being there. The rooms are grand without being overwhelming. You actually look forward to coming back to your room at any time of day because of those views. Every room has a balcony or terrace. The rooms are constantly attended to and always feel like nobody has stayed in them before you.

But the standout for me was our Designated Butler, Kyle Smith. Anything I needed, sorted within five minutes. A driver to Abu Dhabi for the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. Restaurant bookings at Iliana at Marsa Al Arab. Nothing was too much and it was all done to an exceptional standard. Our room attendant Anna Kalicha was lovely too. Made the room look like nobody had ever stayed in it. We adored her and genuinely looked forward to seeing her each day. Can't say I've ever said that about a room attendant before.

If I had to mention one thing that stands out above everything else, it's Cloud 22. The rooftop pool on the bridge that connects the two sides of the hotel. The views in the daytime are mind blowing. But go at night for the Sunset Experience. Day beds, floating day beds, cabanas if you want it more private. It turns into a pool party vibe that hits every sense of excitement you could wish for. You won't forget it quickly.

Simply. The. Best.