Blancpain has always known when to hold back. The Villeret collection, named after the Swiss village where Jehan-Jacques Blancpain set up his workshop in 1735, has long been the brand's quietest and most refined line. Where the Fifty Fathoms and Bathyscaphe go deep, the Villeret stays close to the surface, clean and composed. Now, the entry-level Ultraplate model arrives in a 38mm case that feels like it was always meant to be this size.
The original Villeret Ultraplate launched in a 40mm case, which suited the expectations of the 2010s when bigger meant better for most collectors. But tastes have shifted, and the move to 38mm brings the watch into step with contemporary preferences without losing any of its character. The case measures 8.35mm thick with a lug-to-lug of 43.35mm, meaning it slides under a cuff without a second thought.
For 2026, the big news is not just the downsizing. Blancpain has introduced the Villeret collection's first-ever salmon dial, paired with a steel case. It is a combination that dress watch collectors have been chasing for years, and Blancpain delivers it with characteristic restraint. The sunray-brushed copper tone sits alongside a grey strap that tempers the warmth, while 18k white gold hands and markers add a darkened, cooler accent that stops the dial from feeling too precious.
Three other references join the salmon model. All share a smooth opaline finish in a light gold, beige-like tone. One comes in steel with white gold dial accents, another in 18k rose gold with matching markers, and the final version is a boutique-only edition pairing a steel case with yellow gold dial accents and an olive-toned strap. Each dial has been lightly redesigned from the 2025 Golden Hour Series, with Roman numerals resized for visual balance and solid gold with satin-finished upper surfaces and polished bevels.
The traditional XII numeral has given way to the JB monogram, for Jehan-Jacques Blancpain himself. The slender leaf-shaped hands carry a thin line of Super-LumiNova, and a larger date window at 3 o'clock improves daily legibility. On the reverse, the in-house Calibre 1150 automatic movement offers four days of power reserve and a silicon hairspring. Steel models feature a new yellow gold openworked rotor, while the red gold version gets a colour-matched oscillating weight.
Starting at CHF 9,600 in steel and rising to CHF 19,700 in 18k red gold, the Villeret Ultraplate 38mm sits at the accessible end of Blancpain's range. The boutique edition with yellow gold accents is reserved for Blancpain's own doors. All models come on nubuck alligator leather straps with a tool-free interchangeable system. Sometimes the best move is simply knowing when to make things smaller, and Blancpain has done exactly that.
