FOUR SEASONS FIRENZE: THE PALACE YOU WALK PAST WITHOUT NOTICING
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FOUR SEASONS FIRENZE: THE PALACE YOU WALK PAST WITHOUT NOTICING

AJ BaileySeptember 20264 min

A former aristocrat's palace hidden down a side street in Florence, with grounds that make you forget you are in a city at all. AJ Bailey checks in.

Four Seasons Firenze has to be one of the most beautiful hotels in the world, although you would never know it was there. Situated down a side street in the middle of Florence, a short distance from the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, the entrance gives nothing away. You walk past it without a second glance.

You walk past it without a second glance. Then you step inside.

AJ Bailey

Then you step inside. The bell boys are waiting before you have even reached the door. Luggage taken without fuss, without pause, to the point where you do not even realise it has left your hands. I am a stickler for hotel lobbies and this one has to be up there with Atlantis The Royal in Dubai. Different, but just as majestic in its own historic way.

Four Seasons Firenze lobby atrium with Bacchus statue and frescoed walls
Four Seasons Firenze lobby atrium with Bacchus statue and frescoed walls

The hotel was formerly a palazzo owned by an aristocratic Florentine family, and the original paintwork and layout are still exactly as they were hundreds of years ago. It is simply stunning. That old money luxury feel, very similar to Passalacqua in Lake Como. The kind of place where the walls have seen things and the ceilings remember them.

Grand hallway with marble busts and crystal chandeliers
Grand hallway with marble busts and crystal chandeliers

The Suite

During check-in I was informed, without me asking, that I had been upgraded to one of the higher entry suites in the hotel. I had requested a red-themed room prior to my arrival and they had not only remembered, they had gone beyond it. These are the sorts of things I have noticed the elite hotels in the world do for you without any hesitation whatsoever. No drama, no mention of it being a favour. Just done.

Red floral suite with Venetian frescoed ceiling
Red floral suite with Venetian frescoed ceiling

Before our suite was ready, we were taken on a tour of the inside of the hotel. If ever there was a moment where I felt like royalty in a grand palace, then this was it. Some of the higher-end rooms are breathtaking, with Venetian paintings on the ceiling giving that extra sense of grandeur. And then the bathroom. I was lost for words.

Suite living area with bar cabinet and Murano chandelier
Suite living area with bar cabinet and Murano chandelier

It was so special that I could imagine people spending their whole weekend just in the bathroom alone.

AJ Bailey

It was so special that I could imagine people spending their whole weekend just in the bathroom alone. The suite itself. Absolutely stunning. The walls were carpeted with a red floral theme, with a large bar, closet, living room and bathroom. It felt like a luxury small apartment, and one of, if not the nicest hotel rooms I have ever stayed in.

Suite with gilt mirror and sage velvet bed
Suite with gilt mirror and sage velvet bed

The Staff

What separates a good hotel from a great one is never the room. It is always the people. The staff at Four Seasons Firenze are exceptional, and I say that having stayed at properties where the service felt rehearsed. This did not. I got talking to one member of staff by the name of Klaudia Sina, who has now become one of my closest friends.

Bedroom with Venetian painted ceiling and Murano glass chandelier
Bedroom with Venetian painted ceiling and Murano glass chandelier

Italian, or in her case Albanian, women have the most chic and amazing dress sense I have seen in Europe, and she stood out like a sore thumb. But what impressed me the most was not how good her English was, or her dress sense, but how at ease she made me feel. Her knowledge of the hotel was seriously impressive. Not the scripted kind. The kind that comes from genuinely caring about the place you work in.

Bathroom with chandelier above the marble tub
Bathroom with chandelier above the marble tub

The Grounds

This is what sets Four Seasons Firenze apart from anywhere else located in a city centre. It has extensive parkland grounds, manicured to the highest order. An outdoor pool, a spa, a boutique, a gym. All of it surrounded by trees that have been there longer than the hotel itself. The further you venture through the grounds, the more it feels like you are walking in an enchanted new world.

Bathroom vanity with sepia scenic wallpaper and crystal sconces
Bathroom vanity with sepia scenic wallpaper and crystal sconces

The further you venture, the more it feels like you are walking in an enchanted new world.

AJ Bailey

And then you find it. One of the most photogenic restaurants, located on the outer perimeter of the property, where the manicured gardens meet the ancient walls. You could be anywhere. You could be in the countryside. But you are in the middle of Florence, ten minutes from the Duomo.

Bar lounge with carved lion armchairs and classic Italian elegance
Bar lounge with carved lion armchairs and classic Italian elegance

The Regret

My only regret is not staying longer than I did. Florence is a beautiful city with beautiful people, and Four Seasons Firenze is the kind of hotel that makes you want to cancel your next destination and just stay. I will be back. For longer next time.

Outdoor pool surrounded by manicured parkland grounds
Outdoor pool surrounded by manicured parkland grounds

Some hotels you check out of and forget. This one checks into your head and stays there.

Frescoed corridor with Renaissance grotesque ornamentation
Frescoed corridor with Renaissance grotesque ornamentation
The hotel at night, arched walkway with lanterns
The hotel at night, arched walkway with lanterns
Lobby atrium from above with Bacchus statue centrepiece and pink orchids
Lobby atrium from above with Bacchus statue centrepiece and pink orchids
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AJ Bailey
Opinion, not algorithm.
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